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    <title>glitched - showroom of unique products for sale on Ponoko</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 14:38:52 GMT</pubDate>
    <description>glitched - showroom of unique products for sale on Ponoko</description>
    <item>
      <title>Eurorack Panel for the &quot;Random Looping Sequencer&quot; Project</title>
      <link>http://www.ponoko.in/showroom/glitched/8532</link>
      <description>This is a Eurorack-format panel for the &quot;Random Looping Sequencer&quot; synthesizer DIY project (see below for more information), created by Tom Whitwell.  This is an original design by (d), a.k.a. glitched (http://glitched.org), but the template was based off of Whitwell's original work.  There is a simple, 4HP &quot;expander&quot; panel included in the .svg file, which has labels for clock output and four individual &quot;random&quot; triggers (all taken from the expansion header on the back of the main module).

The picture gallery (linked below) includes examples of prototypes on black matte and white acrylic.  Both versions look cool, but the black matte version with the thinner &quot;data window&quot; looks most striking.  The white version with the heavy-rasterized window didn't work out as I hoped. The LEDs dance around like ghosts, but they're too diffused to give any meaningful user-output.

TIPS AND NOTES:
+The matte materials are not recommended if you're going to be using the &quot;fill-in, then wipe the excess away&quot; method of in-filling.  The material is porous and it will be very difficult to get rid of smudges.  Glossy acrylic is pretty hassle-free.

+I used &quot;heavy raster&quot; engraving for the text and symbols, but the cuts seem unnecessarily deep for in-filling using a Lacquer-Stik.  There's too much excess paint to wipe off.  I have no experience with the other raster intensities, so I can't tell you if they will give you better results.

+If you want to put a knob on the &quot;range&quot; pot, you'll be covering part of the second arrow symbol.

These designs are an Attribution NonCommercial license. In other words, you can't sell them, but you can remix them; if you do that, you have to give me credit (&quot;original by (d) of glitched.org&quot; or similar).
--------------

Picture gallery: http://is.gd/jLmu8L
Project page on muffwiggler.com: http://is.gd/OHWNIg

&lt;br&gt;&lt;/br&gt;&lt;img alt=&quot;Rndseq_blk_ponoko_showroom_image&quot; src=&quot;http://static1.ponoko.com/design_images/images/23320/df135b58-0c1a-726c-2387-56bae9cb7e2c/rndseq_blk_ponoko_showroom_image.jpg?1365473195&quot; /&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Apr 2013 02:07:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.ponoko.in/showroom/glitched/8532?time=Mon+Aug+20+03%3A22%3A37+UTC+2012</guid>
      <author>glitched</author>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Shruti-1 Synthesizer Case</title>
      <link>http://www.ponoko.com/showroom/glitched/4530</link>
      <description>--General Info--
http://mutable-instruments.net/shruti1
The Shruti-1 is a compact, digital synthesizer with a genuine analog filter, based on the CEM3379 chip.  If you haven't heard of it, it's too late; you can't get one because it's discontinued. 

Anyway, this case is extremely compact and minimal, which fits the overall theme and aesthetic of the device.  This is a slight modification of the original case, which can be seen, here: http://www.glitched.org/up/diy-shruti-1-synthesizer-glitched/  

There were two main changes: 1) removed the rear &quot;hack_me&quot; ports and 2) moved the volume knobs forward by a few millimeters to give more clearance to the power switch prongs.

When made with 3.0 mm white acrylic on a P2 sheet, these are the costs: 
Making cost: $9.10
Material cost: $8.66 
(+ shipping)

--Assembly Notes--

These are the standoffs I used:  

McMaster PN#
91780A427   	ALUMINUM FEMALE THREADED HEX STANDOFF, 1/4&quot; HEX, 13/32&quot; LENGTH, 4-40 SCREW
91780A103   	ALUMINUM FEMALE THREADED HEX STANDOFF, 3/16&quot; HEX, 1/4&quot; LENGTH, 2-56 SCREW

The 1/4&quot; standoffs support the control and i/o PCBs; the 3/16&quot; standoffs go with the LCD.  Remember: you'll need to get the screws that mate with the standoffs.  (4-40's are easy to find, but 2-56's may not be readily available.  I was lucky to find a Radio shack with an assortment.)  As I mentioned in the aforementioned drop.io link, I opted to glue the standoffs to the case, using epoxy.  This worked best for me, but you can use whatever method you want.

You will have to glue the four sides to the bottom to keep it sturdy, but the top should fit pretty well without any adhesive (you might want to get in there one day, anyway).

--Other Info--

I spent a lot of time on the design, but am offering it up for free, in the spirit of open-sourceness.  

If you would like to donate a small amount of money, which will subsidize future projects (including a case for the upcoming &quot;Shruthi-1&quot; synthesizer, which will be shared), send via paypal to: dl [at] glitched [dot] org.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/br&gt;&lt;img alt=&quot;Product-plan&quot; src=&quot;http://static3.ponoko.com/images/public_website/template/showroom/product-plan.gif?1323049577&quot; /&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Apr 2013 02:01:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.ponoko.com/showroom/glitched/4530?time=Wed+Jun+23+17%3A10%3A45+UTC+2010</guid>
      <author>glitched</author>
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